The Cradle of Gold — The sacred sister of Machu Picchu

Quick Facts

Introduction

Choquequirao rises on a mountain ridge at 3,050 meters above sea level, with views of the Apurímac canyon on one side and the snow-capped peaks of the Vilcabamba mountain range on the other. It is the largest Inca citadel after Machu Picchu, yet receives fewer visitors in an entire year than its sister site does in a single day.

The name comes from the Quechua Chuqi K’iraw, meaning Cradle of Gold. It was built during the reign of Pachacútec in the 15th century, at the same time as Machu Picchu, and likely served as a religious, administrative, and agricultural center for the Inca elite.

What makes Choquequirao unique is not only its size or its isolation. It is the fact that 70% of the site remains unexcavated, covered by the cloud forest vegetation. Every visit is a reminder that there are still secrets yet to be discovered.

History

Construction (15th Century) Choquequirao was built during the expansion of the Inca empire under Pachacútec and Inca Yupanqui. Archaeologists believe it functioned as a ceremonial center and control post between the highlands and the jungle. Its strategic location allowed it to oversee the Apurímac canyon and the trade routes toward the lowlands.

The Resistance (1536–1572) After the Spanish conquest of Cusco, Choquequirao gained new importance. Manco Inca and his successors used it as part of the network of refuges in the Vilcabamba mountain range. Some historians believe it was one of the last inhabited places before the Incas retreated definitively to Vilcabamba.

The Forgotten Years (1572–1909) When the Spanish conquered Vilcabamba in 1572, Choquequirao was abandoned. The jungle covered it for more than 300 years. There were sporadic expeditions in the 18th and 19th centuries, but none managed to study it systematically.

The Rediscovery (1909) Hiram Bingham, the American explorer who two years later would make Machu Picchu famous, visited Choquequirao in 1909. He documented the ruins and took photographs, but the difficult access prevented the site from gaining the same renown as its sister.

The Present Day Excavations began in earnest in the 1990s and continue to this day. Only 30% of the site has been uncovered. The Peruvian government has proposed building a cable car to facilitate access, but the project has been stalled for decades. For now, Choquequirao remains the domain of those willing to walk.

Sectors of the Archaeological Complex

1. Haucaypata (Main Plaza) The ceremonial and administrative center of Choquequirao. A large esplanade surrounded by finely carved stone buildings. The most important ceremonies were held here and decisions that affected the entire region were made here. The views from the plaza take in the entire Apurímac canyon.
2. Main Temple and Ushnu The most important religious building in the complex. The ushnu is a ceremonial platform oriented toward specific astronomical points. Inca priests performed rituals related to the sun, the moon, and the stars here. The quality of the stonework in this sector is comparable to the finest temples of Cusco.
3. Ceremonial Terrace System Choquequirao has one of the most extensive terrace systems in the Inca empire. They were not solely agricultural. Many terraces had a ceremonial function, used to cultivate sacred products such as coca and corn destined for offerings.
4. Llama Sector The most distinctive element of Choquequirao. There are 24 terraces decorated with figures of llamas and their young, crafted from white stones embedded in dark stone walls. Each llama measures approximately 4 meters in length.

This art does not exist at any other known Inca site. Archaeologists debate its meaning: the figures could represent the importance of llamas in the Inca economy, Andean constellations, or a tribute to the sacred animals that carried offerings between the cities of the empire.

To reach this sector you must walk 30–40 minutes from the main plaza. It is worth every step.

5. Priests’ Sector A collection of high-quality residential structures located in the upper part of the complex. It likely housed the priests and administrators who directed the ceremonies and controlled agricultural production. The niches in the walls suggest that ceremonial objects and offerings were stored here.
6. Pikiwasi Sector A residential area located on the north slope. Simpler structures suggest that the workers and artisans who kept the complex running lived here. It is still partially covered by vegetation.
7. The Viewpoint The highest accessible point of the complex. A 360-degree panoramic view encompassing the Apurímac canyon, the snow-capped peaks of the Vilcabamba mountain range, and on clear days, even the Salkantay snow-capped peak. This is the best place to spot Andean condors, especially on sunny mornings.

The Stone Llamas

They deserve their own section because they are unique in the world.

On the eastern side of Choquequirao, 24 terraces descend along the mountainside. In the retaining walls, the Incas embedded white stones forming figures of adult llamas and their young. The contrast between the white stones and the dark wall makes the figures visible from the other side of the canyon.

Each llama measures approximately 4 meters long and 3 meters tall. Some face upward, others downward. There are adult llamas followed by their young. The level of detail includes legs, ears, tails, and in some cases even facial expressions.

Nothing similar exists at Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, Pisac, or any other Inca site. Archaeologists have several theories:

• Economic representation: Llamas were fundamental to the empire. They carried cargo, provided wool and meat, and were used in sacrifices. The terraces could be a tribute to these sacred animals.
• Celestial map: In Andean cosmology, there is a constellation called Yacana, the celestial llama. The figures could represent this constellation and its relationship with agricultural cycles.
• Territorial marker: The llamas could indicate that these lands belonged to a particular panaca (royal lineage) or that agricultural production was destined for specific purposes.
• Visual message: The figures are visible from a distance. They could have served to communicate something to travelers approaching through the canyon.

Whatever their original meaning, today they are the symbol of Choquequirao and the reason many people walk two days to get there.

Choquequirao vs Machu Picchu

How to Get There

There is no road. There is no cable car. There is no tourist helicopter. The only way to reach Choquequirao is on foot.

Classic Route from Cachora (the most common)

• Start: Village of Cachora (2,900 m)
• Distance: 30 km (one way)
• Time: 2 days of trekking
• Elevation change: -1,500 m (Day 1) / +1,500 m (Day 2)
• Difficulty: Moderate–High

On the first day you descend into the Apurímac canyon. On the second day you cross the river and climb up to the ruins. Most trekkers do the full circuit in 4 days (2 days in, 2 days out).

Route from Vilcabamba (for longer expeditions)

• Start: Huancacalle or Yanama
• Distance: Variable depending on route
• Time: Part of 6–10 day expeditions
• Elevation change: Crosses the San Juan Pass (4,650 m)
• Difficulty: High

This route reaches Choquequirao from the north, crossing the Vilcabamba mountain range. It is less common and more demanding, but allows you to combine Choquequirao with Vilcabamba and/or Machu Picchu.

Best Time to Visit

Dry Season (May – October) The best time. Clear skies, cold nights, dry trails. The views are spectacular and the risk of rain is minimal. It is also the period of highest demand, although “highest demand” at Choquequirao means going from 20 to 40 visitors per day.

Transition Season (April and November) A good time. Occasional rain is possible, usually in the afternoon. The landscapes are greener. Fewer visitors and better prices.

Rainy Season (December – March) Possible but with precautions. Frequent rain, slippery trails, risk of landslides on some sections. Views may be overcast. Not recommended for inexperienced trekkers. February is the rainiest month.

Flora and Fauna

The path to Choquequirao passes through multiple ecological zones:

Upper Zone (2,500 – 3,050 m)

• Wild orchids (over 100 identified species)
• Bromeliads
• Tree ferns
• Andean begonias

Mid Zone (1,500 – 2,500 m)

• Cloud forest
• Ceibo trees
• Alder trees
• Pisonay trees

Lower Zone (1,500 m)

• Columnar cacti
• Agaves
• Dry slope vegetation

Wildlife

• Andean condor (frequently seen in the mornings)
• Vizcacha (Andean rodent)
• White-tailed deer
• Puma (rare, but present)
• Spectacled bear (very rare)
• Hummingbirds (multiple species)
• Tanagers and other cloud forest birds

Interesting Facts

• Choquequirao was “discovered” by Hiram Bingham in 1909, two years before Machu Picchu. But the difficult access kept it in obscurity while its sister became a wonder of the world.
• The site is so large that one archaeologist estimated it would take 50 years to fully excavate at the current rate.
• In 2017, the Peruvian government approved the construction of a cable car that would reduce the 2-day journey to 15 minutes. The project has still not been carried out.
• The name “Cradle of Gold” does not refer to literal gold. In Quechua, “gold” (quri/chuqi) also means “sacred” or “precious.” The more accurate translation would be “Sacred Cradle” or “Precious Cradle.”
• The stone llamas were only discovered in 2004, during vegetation clearance work. They had been hidden under the undergrowth for centuries.
• The visitor record for a single day is approximately 80 people, during a Peruvian long holiday weekend. Compare that to the 5,000 daily visitors at Machu Picchu.